We present the following information, which is particularly relevant for those involved in bookbinding as leather which meets this definition makes for the BEST bookbinding leather. But, not everyone, can make this production.
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The traditional understanding of full grain leather is derived from a minuscule portion of a tanner’s output, typically ranging from 5% to 10%. In contrast, the European Union’s definition of full grain leather allows for up to 100% of a tanner’s production to be classified as such.
The traditional definition of full grain leather is as follows: Leather that has had only the hair removed, the grain has not been altered by more than 5%, and the grain’s appearance has not been changed in any way. These skins are of exceptional quality, displaying very few, if any, imperfections. Examples of leather not considered full grain include semi aniline, embossed, printed, plated, grained, and any finish that obscures the grain.
The reason for not modifying the grain of traditional full grain leather is that it is so rare and naturally beautiful. To make a modification would be akin to adding a mustache to the Mona Lisa.!!
The definition according to the European Union is as follows: The grain cannot be buffed. However, it can be completely covered or disguised to hide any defects by applying full pigmentation, partial pigmentation (semi aniline), grain manipulation, embossing, graining, glazing, and more. Any alteration that makes the leather appear like an “imitation” of another animal skin is prohibited.
We introduce the traditional definition of full grain leather, (used by our company and our trading partners for over 100 years) which is significant for both its commercial value and its suitability for bookbinding. Vegetable tanned leather is the preferred choice for traditional rebinding, and leather that is considered classic full grain is the most receptive to detailed gold tooling with albumen, blind tooling, paring, and demonstrates durability. Classic Full Grain leather is so scarce, that other leathers sold under the less strenuous definition, should be sold to the user at a significant discount.
We see so many leathers sold as full grain being sold, with the EU definition – Our question, when the grain is covered, how does anyone know that the grain has not been previously buffed????, and is certainly not Full Grain by anyone’s definition?
A few examples of our leathers which are vegetable tanned (lab tested, many), and meet definition of Classic Full Grain
SF Calf, UK Calf, Natural Sheepskin, Natural Goat, .5mm Veg Goat, Smooth Historical Goat, Capra Granulosa, Sokoto Morocco, Sokoto Traditional, Genuine Levant …. A partial list
Your feedback is valuable. Please let us know if this is helpful. If you should have any questions, please do not hesitate to contact us. email [email protected]
