We present the following information, which is particularly relevant for those involved in bookbinding as leather which meets this definition makes for the BEST bookbinding leather. But, not everyone, can make this production.

Your feedback is valuable. Please let us know if this is helpful. If you should have any questions, please do not hesitate to contact us. email [email protected]

 The traditional understanding of full grain leather is derived from a minuscule portion of a tanner’s output, typically ranging from 5% to 10%. In contrast, the European Union’s definition of full grain leather allows for up to 100% of a tanner’s production to be classified as such.

 The traditional definition of full grain leather is as follows: Leather that has had only the hair removed, the grain has not been altered by more than 5%, and the grain’s appearance has not been changed in any way. These skins are of exceptional quality, displaying very few, if any, imperfections. Examples of leather not considered full grain include semi aniline, embossed, printed, plated, grained, and any finish that obscures the grain.

 The reason for not modifying the grain of traditional full grain leather is that it is so rare and naturally beautiful. To make a modification would be akin to adding a mustache to the Mona Lisa.!!

The definition according to the European Union is as follows: The grain cannot be buffed. However, it can be completely covered or disguised to hide any defects by applying full pigmentation, partial pigmentation (semi aniline), grain manipulation, embossing, graining, glazing, and more. Any alteration that makes the leather appear like an “imitation” of another animal skin is prohibited.

We introduce the traditional definition of full grain leather, (used by our company and our trading partners for over 100 years) which is significant for both its commercial value and its suitability for bookbinding. Vegetable tanned leather is the preferred choice for traditional rebinding, and leather that is considered classic full grain is the most receptive to detailed gold tooling with albumen, blind tooling, paring, and demonstrates durability. Classic Full Grain leather is so scarce, that other leathers sold under the less strenuous definition, should be sold to the user at a significant discount.

We see so many leathers sold as full grain being sold, with the EU definition – Our question, when the grain is covered, how does anyone know that the grain has not been previously buffed????, and is certainly not Full Grain by anyone’s definition?

A few examples of our leathers which are vegetable tanned (lab tested, many), and meet definition of Classic Full Grain

SF Calf, UK Calf, Natural Sheepskin, Natural Goat, .5mm Veg Goat, Smooth Historical Goat, Capra Granulosa, Sokoto Morocco, Sokoto Traditional, Genuine Levant  ….   A partial list

Your feedback is valuable. Please let us know if this is helpful. If you should have any questions, please do not hesitate to contact us. email [email protected]

Our website home page highlights 2 scarce books, Hides and Skin Markets of the World, Freudenberg, 1959, private publication and Report of the Committee of the Society of Arts on Leather for Bookbinding, 1905, edition with leather samples

One of the copies that we have of Freudenberg was given to our firm when originally published, about 60 years ago. Since, we have purchased additional copies as they become available from collectors. The difference between Hides and Skins is in nomemclature which refers to size. Hides are large, such as Cowhides, Water Buffalo Hides. Skins are much smaller, such as lambskin, calfskin, goatskin.  One would NEVER refer to goat leather as goat hide! Freudenberg brings some interesting data, for example, on Sokoto goats which we have been selling for 30 odd years for bookbinding.  Freudenberg provides some of the details of the tanning , which was not otherwise available before. He speaks about using bagaruwa,  and other naturally occurring botanicals in production. Many bookbinders who trained on Sokoto goats many years ago, would sometimes refer to these skins as Nigers.  These skins are not from Niger. Niger, as of 1959 had never been an exporter of leather or hides. Calling Sokoto goatskins Nigers, though it may sound familiar to many, is actually incorrect. One notable bookbinder who preferred Sokoto goatskins was Douglas Cockerell, a master craftsman of the early 20th century known for his meticulous attention to detail. Cockerell praised the durability and unique texture of Sokoto goatskins, which he found ideal for creating long-lasting, aesthetically pleasing book covers. His works, often showcased in exhibitions, highlight the exceptional quality and beauty of these skins.

Good Morning

Yesterday, we received an email from a customer who had been advised by someone to use mink oil to clean excess gold foil on our Sokoto. This resulted in the leather being ruined with a very dark oil stain.

We suggested trying a polar organic solvent to try to clean – butane commonly found in lighter fluid in very small quantity application and blotting oil out with a white paper towel or clean white cloth.

Below are the before and after pictures. This was successful. We all felt relief. We hope that this information is helpful to you

Warmest Regards

Steve