Welcome back to the Siegel Leather Insights Blog – your resource for bookbinding leathers, specialty leathers, and the timeless knowledge behind leather craftsmanship. In this part of our Leather Knowledge Series, we focus on one of the most important foundational texts in our field: Leather for Libraries (1905).

If you’re a bookbinder, conservator, or historian, this publication is essential reading. It remains one of the most comprehensive studies on leather durability ever undertaken and continues to shape the production standards we uphold today at Siegel Leather – trusted bookbinding leather suppliers since 1932.

Leather for Libraries: A Must-Read for Anyone Working with Bookbinding Leather

We strongly encourage anyone interested in bookbinding leathers to read the first 30 pages of Leather for Libraries, available freely online. It’s concise, accessible, and surprisingly engaging especially for a century-old text.

The report was published in 1905 and represents the conclusions of the most extensive survey of leather-bound library books ever conducted. It remains a cornerstone reference for any supplier or craftsman committed to producing lasting materials.

Read or Download Leather for Libraries

What Makes It So Important?

The authors of Leather for Libraries were deeply passionate about the preservation of books and equally critical of poor tanning practices that led to the rapid degradation of bindings.

Key takeaways include:

• Avoid mechanical manipulation: The text emphatically warns against splitting hides or applying artificial grain, practices that weaken leather structure and shorten lifespan.
  
  
• Use traditional tanning methods: Vegetable tanning is favored, with specific guidance on the origin and handling of skins.
  
  
• Beware of poor chemical use: The study criticizes the overuse of synthetic additives in favor of natural, tested agents.
  
  
• High standards, strong language: On page 23, the authors even joke that leather producers who violate preservation standards should face jail time.

Their seriousness is matched by meticulous detail. This report laid the groundwork for standards adopted by His Majesty’s Stationery Office, which oversaw leather used in English libraries and still influences decisions made by premium leather suppliers today.

Why This Still Matters in 2025

At Siegel Leather, we believe in learning from the past to make better products today. Many modern tanneries cut corners, we don’t.

Our specialty leathers are carefully selected and naturally tanned to ensure long-term durability, in line with the Leather for Libraries standards.

If you’re passionate about all things bookbinding, whether for restoration or new design, this short read will give you a foundation that few others in the field have taken the time to study.

Let’s Talk Leather

Have questions about the book? Curious about how it connects to our current materials and tanning processes? We’re always happy to discuss.

Steven Siegel Leather

Email: s.siegel@siegelleather.com Or sales@siegelleather.com for product inquiries

Phone: +1 (336) 293-7624 7

1147 Huntingdon Road,
Winston-Salem, NC 27104

For Further Reading

• Report of the Committee on Leather for Bookbinding
• Leather for Libraries

 

Looking for Archival-Grade Bookbinding Leather?

Siegel Leather is a trusted name among bookbinding leather suppliers globally. Our materials are used by libraries, conservators, and master binders who value quality over compromise.

Explore our full range of bookbinding leathers and discover why tradition and craftsmanship still matter.

At Siegel Leather, we’ve been supplying bookbinding leathers and specialty leathers to professionals for nearly a century. But in a marketplace where the term “full grain leather” is often used too loosely, it’s important to distinguish between traditional craftsmanship and modern commercial standards.

This article explains the true, classical definition of full grain leather, why it matters in bookbinding, and how our leathers continue to meet the highest standards for durability, workability, and historical authenticity.

What Is Classical Full Grain Leather?

Traditionally, full grain leather refers to only the top 5–10% of a tannery’s output, the finest hides that have:

• Had only the hair removed
• Not been altered more than 5% at the grain surface
• No mechanical grain manipulation, embossing, or heavy finishing
• No attempts to obscure or hide the natural texture of the grain

These hides are naturally beautiful and exceptionally rare. Altering them would be, as we often say, “like adding a mustache to the Mona Lisa.”

This definition has been used by Siegel Leather and our trading partners for over 100 years, and it remains the benchmark for true bookbinding leather suppliers who value quality over mass-market appeal.

The EU Definition: Why It Falls Short

In contrast, the European Union’s definition of full grain leather is far more lenient and allows nearly 100% of a tannery’s output to be classified as “full grain.” Under this version:

• The leather cannot be buffed
• But it can be fully pigmented, semi-aniline finished, embossed, plated, glazed, or grain-printed
• The grain surface may be completely disguised — raising serious questions about what lies beneath

Our concern is simple:

If the grain is completely covered, how can anyone be sure it hasn’t been buffed or altered?
That’s not full grain by any meaningful or traditional definition.

Why Classical Full Grain Matters in Bookbinding

For professional bookbinders, conservators, and collectors, classical full grain vegetable-tanned leather remains the gold standard.

It is:

• Highly receptive to gold tooling, blind tooling, and albumen work
• Ideal for paring and shaping
• Naturally durable and long-lasting
• Incredibly rare, and therefore valuable
  

Leathers that fail to meet this standard, particularly those manipulated under the EU’s broader definition should be priced significantly lower, given their compromised quality and reduced performance.

Leathers from Siegel That Meet the Classical Standard

Our selection of vegetable-tanned bookbinding leathers includes only hides that meet or exceed the traditional full grain definition.

Here are some of the top choices:

• SF Calf
  
• UK Calf
  
• Natural Sheepskin
  
• Natural Goat
  
• .5mm Veg Goat
  
• Smooth Historical Goat
  
• Capra Granulosa
  
• Sokoto™ Morocco
  
• Sokoto™ Traditional
  
• Genuine Levant

These are lab-tested, time-honored materials trusted by the world’s most discerning binders and leather suppliers.

Let’s Hear From You

Have questions about grain quality, tanning methods, or leather standards?
We’re happy to help. Whether you’re sourcing for library rebinding, fine editions, or restoration projects, we’re here for you.

Email: sales@siegelleather.com

Siegel Leather: A Tradition Built on Integrity

We are proud to be among the few remaining bookbinding leather suppliers in the world who hold to the classical definition of full grain leather. Explore our full catalog of specialty leathers trusted by artisans, historians, and institutions alike.

At Siegel Leather, our commitment to tradition includes not just the leather we supply, but also the stories and heritage behind it. Among our most celebrated materials is Sokoto™ goatskin, a uniquely durable, finely grained leather sourced from northern Nigeria and cherished by generations of master bookbinders.

This article explores the historical significance of Sokoto™ goats, as documented in two rare publications we proudly feature on our homepage:

• Hides and Skins Markets of the World by Freudenberg (1959)
• Report of the Committee of the Society of Arts on Leather for Bookbinding (1905)

A Rare Book with Deep Industry Insight

One of our prized possessions at Siegel is an original copy of Freudenberg’s 1959 Hides and Skins Markets of the World, privately published and given directly to our firm upon release. We’ve since acquired additional copies as they surface among collectors, a testament to the enduring value of this work.

Freudenberg provides rare insight into traditional tanning methods in regions like northern Nigeria. He was among the first to document the use of bagaruwa (African acacia pods) and other native botanicals in the production of Sokoto™ Goatskin, a process passed down through generations.

Goatskin vs. Goat Hide: A Matter of Accuracy

A common misconception in the leather world is referring to goatskin as “goat hide.” This is a technical inaccuracy. In proper nomenclature:

• Hides come from large animals (cowhide, buffalo hide)
• Skins refer to smaller animals (goatskin, calfskin, sheepskin)

So while “goat hide” may sound familiar, the correct and professional term especially in fine bookbinding circles is goatskin.

Clarifying the “Niger” Misnomer

Many veteran bookbinders who trained on Nigerian goatskin decades ago colloquially referred to these leathers as “Nigers.” While this term was widely used in the trade, it is technically incorrect:

The skins were not from Niger. As of 1959, Niger had never exported hides or leather.

The proper origin is Sokoxto, Nigeria, and the correct reference is Sokoto™ goatskin, a name we proudly trademarked to preserve authenticity and correct historical inaccuracy.

Cockerell’s Endorsement: A Testament to Quality

The renowned British bookbinder Douglas Cockerell, a leading figure in the Arts and Crafts movement, often worked with Sokoto™ goatskin. Known for his attention to durability, tooling performance, and aesthetic refinement, Cockerell found Sokoto™ skins to be uniquely suited for high-end bookbinding.

His surviving works, many of which are displayed in museum and university collections feature Sokoto™ goatskin covers praised for their fine grain, deep dye absorption, and lasting beauty.

Why Sokoto™ Remains a Specialty Leather for the Ages

Today, Siegel Leather continues to offer Sokoto™ Traditional and Sokoto™ Morocco, true descendants of the same artisanal tradition described by Freudenberg and used by Cockerell.

These leathers are:

• Vegetable-tanned using indigenous botanicals
• Naturally grained – no embossing or mechanical finishing
• Ideal for gold tooling, blind tooling, and archival rebinding
• Trusted by conservators, master binders, and specialty libraries globally
  

Want to Learn More?

We’re proud to share these stories as part of our mission to keep the art of bookbinding leather alive and respected. Have questions or insights about Sokoto™ goatskin or historic tanning techniques?

Contact us at sales@siegelleather.com Or call us at +1 (336) 293-7624

At Siegel Leather, we’re committed to helping our customers preserve and care for the fine specialty leathers we supply – including our signature Sokoto™ goatskin. Sometimes, even with the best intentions, mistakes happen. And when they do, we’re here to offer guidance.

We’ve received an email from a concerned customer who had been advised – incorrectly – to use mink oil to clean excess gold foil off of Sokoto™ leather. The result? A deep, dark oil stain that nearly ruined the project.

What Went Wrong: Why Mink Oil Should Never Be Used on Sokoto™

Mink oil and other heavy, penetrating oils are not suitable for cleaning bookbinding leathers, especially premium vegetable-tanned varieties like Sokoto™ Traditional or Sokoto™ Morocco.

These oils are:

• Highly absorbent and difficult to remove
• Known to darken leather permanently
• Often incompatible with archival materials
• Likely to damage the grain-corium structure of fine goatskin

In this case, the leather absorbed the oil unevenly, leaving a large blackened stain across the cover, a heartbreaking sight for any binder.

The Solution: How We Helped Remove the Stain

We advised the customer to attempt cleaning using a polar organic solvent in this case, butane, which is commonly found in small amounts in standard lighter fluid.

Important: This process should be done with great care and in a well-ventilated area. Here’s the method we recommended:

Leather Oil Stain Removal – Safe DIY Method

1. Apply a small amount of lighter fluid (butane-based) to a clean white cloth or paper towel
2. Gently blot the stained area — do not rub, as friction may damage the grain
3. Use short, repeated dabs, allowing time between applications
4. As the solvent evaporates, it may draw oil up and out of the leather
5. Continue blotting with fresh clean cloths until no more oil transfers

Before & After: A Successful Recovery

Thankfully, this method worked. The stain lightened significantly, and the customer was able to salvage the project — to everyone’s relief.

Leather Care Advice from Siegel Leather

Our leathers are produced for archival-quality performance, but their natural, unaltered grain also makes them more sensitive to improper care methods.

Here are a few best practices:

• Never apply oils, waxes, or conditioners not tested on archival goatskin
• Avoid heavy rubbing, solvents, or water-based cleaning
• Test any cleaning method on a scrap or hidden area first
• Contact us directly before attempting repairs or restoration
  

We’re Here to Help

If you’re unsure how to care for your leather or encounter a mishap, we’re just a message away.

• Email: sales@siegelleather.com
• Phone: +1 (336) 293-7624
• Or use our contact form
  

Siegel Leather: Bookbinding Leather Suppliers Who Care

We don’t just sell bookbinding leathers, we also support the community that uses them. Are you a first-time customer or a seasoned binder working with specialty leathers? You will find invaluable resources on our website and should you have questions or concerns, we are always available to guide you through best practices and help solve problems when they arise.